MATERIAL BEING ADDED REGULARLY

If you have any technical questions or need any help whatsoever, please call Billy or Ray at the factory.

Installing an outdoor wood furnace can be broken down simply*.

However, we have a 49 page manual to explain and show every detail, so you can do it yourself, like over 80% of our customers!

1. Pour a 4" concrete pad (best option) or place cinder blocks partially buried, to support the furnace. It weighs 1600 lb. It will only take ˝ yard of concrete for a 4'x10' pad (approx 4" thick). This gives you a nice place to stand and load wood.
2. Dig a trench below the frost line  (the maximum depth to which frost normally penetrates the soil during the winter), with a small backhoe (can be rented), to prevent excessive heat loss and freezing. The ground stays at a nice 45-55 degrees below this point. This depth varies from area to area depending on the climate. See this map (pdf file):  You will need to enlarge this for a close-up view by clicking the + button at the top of the page and scrolling to the area you want - or call your local building inspector's office. 
   
   Trenchers or small excavators/backhoes can be rented cheaply allowing you to do this with little effort, avoiding a $40-60 an hour fee from your local landscaper, plumber or septic tank installer. 
   
   You will be placing pre-insulated pre-made PEX pipe in a trench, from the furnace to the house. We highly recommend that you use insulated Pex Pipe. This will save you a lot of wood over anything you would make yourself. You will need to place a 12/3 110V UG wire in the same trench.
3. Install the heat exchanger in the furnace's outlet plenum. You can probably find a size to fit your plenum so that little or no metal work is needed. It is usually a slide-in affair with some L-shaped bracing to hold in in place. Just cut a hole the proper width in the side of the plenum (usually 4"), slide in place and reseal.
4. Hook up the PEX pipe at both ends - the furnace and at the heat exchanger.
5. Hook up the PEX pipe (a second run and pump is recommended) at the hot water heater. This also supplies water to your outside furnace, to fill it. 
   
   No side-arm heat exchanger needed since potable hot water is circulated directly between the furnace and hot water heater! (See below) This saves you about $200.
6. Install a circuit breaker ($8-20) in your breaker box and connect the 110V wire/cable to the breaker and furnace. (You wire up the back of the furnace including the light - which is shipped in the firebox, so it doesn't get damaged.)
7. Install a simple thermostat and hook up.
8. Fill with water. Start a fire!
9. You are now saving money every day!

Download Diagram for Boiler and Hydronic installations such as for water radiators, water baseboard heaters, etc.

Download Diagram for hooking up a Pool, Hot Tub or Spa.

Backup power for your outdoor furnace

We sell a battery charger and inverter combo that is easy to install and use!

Utility Power -When stove sentry is used with a 90 A-HR Marine Battery, its highly efficient circuitry can provide up to 8 hours of operation in the absence of electricity.

How it Works:

When electricity is present the Surefire Stove Sentry charges a battery and surveys the power line. At the instant that a power failure occurs, the Surefire Stove Sentry converts the energy stored in the battery to AC power. This assures operation of the wood furnace or pellet stove without interruption during the absence of electricity.

When AC utility power is restored, the Surefire Stove Sentry reinstates AC utility power as the prime energy source to operate the wood furnace or pellet stove. Simultaneously and automatically the Surefire Stove Sentry commences the recharging of the battery, to return it to full capacity in preparation for the next power failure.

You can also install a small solar panel to charge the battery, instead of using line power and use a less expensive inverter.

Bear in mind that you may also need a power supply (backup) for your furnace fan! A small generator will do the trick.

Here is a list of the parts you need:

1. Installation kit (includes 2 shut-off valves, a drain and 2 SharkBite style fittings) at $68.11 ea

2. Hot water kit (includes a thermostat, pump flange and fittings to attach everything; top and bottom) $79.32

3. Heat exchanger   U.S. made: $202 and up 

4. Hydrocoil kit (SharkBite style fittings for the heat exchanger)  $34.19

5. Pump for the H/W heater  $99 

6. Pre-made insulated Pex pipe for $7.95 a foot for a 4" pipe with two 1" Pex pipes and two 3/4" Pex pipes - U.S. made

These prices are plus shipping.

Note: SharkBite™ style fittings are simple, push-on-by-hand Pex fittings

In addition to these parts, you will need to buy these parts locally:

12/3 wire

cement or solid concrete blocks (pavers) for the pad

inexpensive 2-wire thermostat ($15)

Assuming that the furnace is going to be 50 feet from your home, you are looking at approx $530 for the parts 1-5 plus the Pex Pipe (approx $400 + shipping), if you want pre-made, pre-insulated pipe that you simply drop in the ground and cover up.

CALL TED at ABBOTT BOILER PARTS TO ORDER PARTS

828-687-4074

Heat exchangers: 

We sell many sizes of heat exchangers, which are much like heater core and a car. A heater core in a car gets heated up by the hot water from the engine and when air blows over it you get heat - and a lot of. A heater core looks a lot like a small radiator.

They install like the diagram and pictures below.

The 2 while lines (Pex pipe) lead to each side of the heat exchanger,
cleverly pout just above the furnace!

A transition had to be made for this round duct to make a place for the rectangular heat exchanger.

Here is a picture of an air handler, which is basically just a big fan, coupled with a heat exchanger.
Many variations of this are available for your shop or garage or make your own
for less, with a used squirrel cage fan!

We have nice unit heaters with fans!

Water-to-water or Plate Heat exchangers for Hydronics, boilers or radiant floor systems



 

This plate heat exchanger, otherwise known as the water-to-water heat exchanger, 
keeps the water isolated between your indoor system and the outdoor boiler. 

If your current system is pressurized, it will stay pressurized and there will be no change
in operation. It simply plumbs into the return line of your current system, re-heating the
water and tricking your boiler into thinking there is no heat loss, so it won't turn on.

Installation kit for the back of the furnace.

All but one shut-off valve goes at 2 above (not shown)
and one shut-off valve goes before the pump.

Insulated Pex Pipe

What's nice is that you have 4 Pex lines for heating your hot water tank. This also gives you a fill or supply line for your outdoor furnace. The 4 Pex pipes are surrounded by FOUR wraps of  insulation with a sleeve or pipe around that. 

This provides a great  R-value, which is great for Canada, even if you have to lay it on top of. or bury it in frozen ground.

$5.95/foot	$7.95/foot

Uninsulated or bare Pex pipe is available for the run INSIDE your home, if needed.

CALL TED at ABBOTT BOILER PARTS TO ORDER PEX PIPE and any other parts.

828-687-4074

Click on picture for a HUGE image. Modem users click HERE.
Be sure to click on lower right of diagram after downloading, to make it bigger.

Scroll to bottom to see piping and wires in basement. 

Picture shown has heated garage too, in basement, but could be separate garage or shop.

Click on Picture for a LARGER IMAGE

Single zone setup with one pump 1. Goes to house heat exchanger  2. Return from house heat exchanger  3. Power to pump, thermostat and blower  4. Return from hot water heater to built-in potable hot water coil  5. Outlet from potable water coil (not seen - inside of furnace, in water jacket) to hot water heater 6. To manual fill valve on front of furnace 7. Water supply to furnace from manual valve  8. Optional outdoor hot water supply (just add a faucet!) 9. Drain  10.Blower (for fire) 11.Pump (to circulate water) 12.Thermostat (for blower) The furnace shown is a single zone plus hot water. However, ALL furnaces now come with another hookup for another building at no extra charge. US made pumps are just $99.

Click on Picture for a LARGER IMAGE
Be sure to click on lower right of diagram after downloading, to make it bigger.

Outside Dimensions of Shaver 165 Furnace
This will fit nicely in Most Pickup Trucks, against the cab

Chimney height relative to nearest downwind neighbor

1. If located 50 feet or less to any residence not served by the furnace, it is recommended that the stack be at least 2 feet higher than the eave line of that residence.

2. If located more than 50 feet but no more than 100 feet to any residence, it is recommended that the stack be at least 75% of the height of the eave line of that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.

3. If located more than 100 feet but no more than 150 feet to any residence, it is recommended that the stack be at least 50% of the eave line of that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.

4. If located more than 150 feet but no more than 200 feet to any residence, it is recommended that the stack be at least 25% of the height of the eave line of that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.

The chimney can easily be extended with standard stove pipe (with an adapter, for only $89), to any height necessary, with zero adverse affect on performance.